With clothing, shoes, bag, water you pass this by 50 lbs. ~800w or so accelerating in the saddle, about 1200-1300w for hard acceleration out of the saddle.Ģ80 lbs only you "naked"? And such a strong rider? This is far over the Creo limits, which is (at least here in Germany) 240 lbs. If you're still having problems consider a NW chainring.įor those riding off-road with steep climbs a smaller chainring will also reduce the need to use the larger cassette cogs and thereby reduce cross-over chainline issues. My recommendation for those having problems with the Praxis chainrings would be toġ) check that your chain is not worn ("stretched"),Ģ) make sure your chain is clean and well lubricated,ģ) check the derailleur SIS and B-screw adjustments, andĤ) confirm that the derailleur clutch is engaged. So far so good, but of course we need to see how they behave after more miles. In addition, we did not have the chain drop off even riding rough conditions off-pavement with the derailleur clutch off (done as a test and to allow easier shifting). We just returned from our first ride with 42t and 44t NW rings and they seemed smoother and quieter than the Praxis 46t ring. We were not experiencing significant problems with chain drop, but wanted lower gearing and chose to go with tried-and-true NW rings. The GRX clutch is pretty strong and should prevent chain drop when used with a N-W chainring.Īs described in post #62 above Mrs e-levity and I switched from the Praxis Wave chainrings to conventional Narrow-Wide chainrings. I'm just waiting for the right length chainring bolts.
I'm going to switch to a N-W style chainring as I want to go down to 42t on my Comp Carbon EVO bike for lower gearing anyway (42t will still allow me to spin a little over 30mph). I've never dropped a chain using N-W chainrings without guides, but I have dropped the chain on my Creo's Praxis ring when I neglected to have the clutch engaged. I'm willing to give up some mud clearance and accept a bit more wear to have the chain stay on. The teeth on a typical Narrow-Wide chain ring are ~2mm (narrow) and ~3.5mm (wide), and this helps with chain grip and prevents skipping. This is claimed to create a "more open area for mud and debris" and to result in less wear, but I think it sacrifices chain retention. The teeth are all narrow, ~2mm thick, and simply alternate in an in-and-out "wave" pattern. I'm not convinced of the value of the Praxis "Wave Tech" chain tooth design. I wonder, if we can use the bottle cage attachment point to secure a guard?Īny suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It seems to me that a braze-on adapter would require a straight tube. Attaching a braze-on adapter I guess would normally work, but I'm not certain what size adapter to get and if one will even fit as our Crew seat tubes flare out as they reach the area around the motor/chain ring.
TURBO CREO SL COMP CARBON EVO HOW TO
So, I'd like to attach a chain guard, but I have no idea how to do so. The Praxis site recommends having a chain guard "for best results." But sadly, the chain still drops off the ring when placed this way. I read that the Praxis "wave tech" chain ring is meant to have the "outer" link of the chain engaging the "inner" tooth of the chain ring for best results. It happens even when the clutch is engaged. It generally happens on steep climbs and it doesn't seem to matter if we are on gravel or tarmac.
I really love my SL Comp Carbon Evo, but both my wife and I (she has an EVO too), frequently experience chain drop when the chain is on the large ring of the rear cassette.
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